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Waffles on top of Wyoming

Gales of windswept snow crystals swirl around the Jackson Hole tram as it pulls into its rhine-crusted stall atop Rendezvous Peak. Outside, a barren landscape awaits. The final stop along the edge of a massive mountain range. Yet, despite the exposed and windy conditions that typify mid-winter in the high alpine of one of the world’s greatest ski mountains, a sweet aroma slithers toward unsuspecting olfactory senses.

My fellow skiers and I have already decided to take a small break to savor the view of endless peaks across the horizon. During our approach, the grumbling of our stomachs was drowned out by the cacophony of the interior of the tram, but upon exiting the sprightly vessel, we can’t contain our hunger any longer. Not with Corbet’s Cabin just a few feet away.

The bunker-like structure seems almost like an optical illusion. Hidden almost by the clouds, it juts out from its sunken position among the whiteness of mountaintop snowpack. Surrounded by deep snow banks and lined with old skinny skis, Corbet’s Cabin looks like a relic — built in the 1960s, one could consider it as such. But it’s what happens inside the cabin that has piqued our interest as a delectable and unmistakable smell beckons us closer. Yes, it is here that one can find the quintessential ski day sustenance: waffles. 

After wedging our skis safely into the deep snow that encircles the cabin, we lean against the wind and stagger toward the warmth that waits for us inside. The front deck is always shoveled, keeping the way cleared for the ski patrollers that share this shelter. Once indoors, we are warmly greeted by the sizzling sound of waffles on the iron and a homey interior decorated with nostalgic ski photos and gear.

We are not the only skiers on the hill in need of a re-charge, but as we walk in a group in the corner is layering back up and wave us to take over their cozy round table. We peel off jackets to feel the sudden thaw of warmth against our fingertips and welcome the short wait in line for providing a moment to grapple with the options. Hungry or not, making a selection here is not easy — these aren’t your mother’s waffles.

I choose to have mine smothered in nutella, the old stand by — though there are other, equally mouthwatering alternatives. We each get something different from the menu, with plans to divvy up slices of our favorites; brown sugar and butter, peanut butter and bacon, and lemon glaze with powdered sugar and whipped cream. Really, how does anyone decide on just one?

Lemon glaze with powdered sugar and whipped cream. On a waffle. While skiing.

At Corbet’s Cabin, a warm window seat and a waffle wrapped in foil is a flawless way to spoil yourself for lunch, though these hand held packets of joy are also totally acceptable breakfast food. Gleefully tired from a morning of countless tram laps, the warm and tasty pause in our day is a delight. Inevitably, we realize that we’ve over-warmed and over-gorged and, noticing gaps of views clearing in the clouds, we elect to finish our food on the deck. 

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To support this location feeling as if it’s a final trading post on the edge of the world, the waffle artists who create these culinary concoctions must transport everything to this little hut via the tram. There is no running water and perched at 10,450 feet, the term “top-of-the-world waffles” is justly earned. Clicking back into our skis, the 4,139 vertical feet of skiing immediately awaiting us seems easy. Departing the coziness of the cabin is the hard part. Because once you’ve had a Corbet’s Cabin waffle, every time you catch a whiff of that familiar scent steaming into the cold thin air, it’s damn near impossible to say no.

Corbet’s Cabin serves some of the planet’s most-needed waffles, hot and cold drinks including beer, cookies, snacks, and small ski essentials every winter day that the tram is running. 9 am to 3 pm. Or stop by for the views and bathrooms! 
http://www.jacksonhole.com/waffles.html

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Images © Taylor Glenn

A love letter to the road less traveled

Dirt roads are a staple in the West, where it’s common to find unmarked and unmapped routes crossing vast swaths of open, unfettered space. Out here we hold dirt roads in high regard — usually the average nameless turnoff is only the first step in a day of exploring wild places. Because in this corner of the world, adventure almost always begins with dirt.

That’s why “going for a drive” in Wyoming typically involves some gravel, dust and mud, if you’re lucky. It’s pretty simple — just pick a road and drive it, roll the windows down and let some of that sage tinted air waft in. Bumping along over washboards and around dips and trenches, it’s possible to actually feel the contours of the landscape. Regardless of whether said path is well-manicured gravel, or dicey, rutted-out, mud-puddled trails, you have to take it slow. 

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Abandoning the buzz of traffic for a more scenic and colorful route is when we begin to gain real knowledge of our surroundings. At first, view-awed silence takes over as the pebbles clank by under the axles. Soon, with cell phone service hopefully unable to catch up, the car swells with conversation. Timeless observations and discussions trace and probe the landscape as we roll through it. Eyes up, voices and pauses swing through the car like a pendulum, looking and talking, looking and talking.

Although adventures are always special to share, solo excursions are no less clarifying. Conversations still happen just the same. Eyes up, looking and thinking, looking and thinking. If the moment is right, a rest is needed, or a partner isn’t available, going for a drive can be just as rewarding in the peacefulness of solitude. Trips taken alone have the potential to inspire all contemplations of the universe, and some of the best ideas are hatched in the wild.

Finding the less-traveled path is especially easy to do around Jackson Hole, where unassuming backroads are a dime a dozen and each one has the potential to reveal a window of the Tetons that can otherwise go unnoticed. Whether from right underneath the towering range or a glimpse stolen from across in the Gros Ventre, the Tetons are startling as they appear suddenly from around a corner, silently looming in their magnitude. 

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Traveling along dirt roads is all about the pace — stopping is easy and worth doing every so often. Without the obstruction of a rushing highway, nature’s more subtle sounds can be heard more clearly: the fluted notes of a meandering creek, the accompaniment of leaves rustling in the wind. Once in a while you might find yourself amongst a herd of elk without another car in sight. Such an experience is worth every second spent getting there.

Four-wheel drive and a willing copilot are all that’s required; though for some reason, Willie Nelson on the radio always seems to fit in nicely. Commit to a way ahead until there’s a view worth stopping for, or a fence post worth leaning on. It might sound cliche, but honestly, it feels surprisingly natural and downright satisfying. From there, all it takes is one, amber-rose colored sunset to create an unforgettable moment in the outdoors. After all, that’s what backroads are all about.

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Photos © Taylor Glenn

Photo Tips: Capturing the Night Skies in Jackson Hole

Astrophotography has seen a boom in the recent years with digital technology. The capabilities of today’s cameras are incredible and capturing the night sky has never been easier. Here in Jackson Hole we are fortunate to have a combination of very little light pollution and high altitude that creates a perfect place to capture brilliant photos of the cosmos. Here are a few tips to get you started. First of all you need the proper equipment. A tripod, camera, and a fast/wide lens. A shutter release and headlamp can be useful as well. Don’t get too concerned about having the absolute latest camera as long as its relatively new. Of course the newer the better as each generation of digital sensors outperform the previous. Lens choice is also hugely important when it comes to image quality. I typically use my Nikon 14-24mm f2.8G as it is very fast and very sharp, a great lens for this. You will find that wider is usually better for night photography. nightsky-001-8

Nikon D750 Nikon 24-70mm f2.8G Nikon 14-24mm f2.8G Gitzo Basalt Tripod Really Right Stuff Panning Ballhead Really Right Stuff L Bracket for Nikon D750

For getting a correct exposure there are a few rules of thumb here that will be helpful. In these photos you will notice that there are no ‘star trails’. Star trails occur when you have the shutter open long enough to record the rotation of the earth. Because the earth is moving relative to the stars the result is that the stars will create a ‘trail’. For my images I prefer to capture the brilliance of the night sky without the trail affect so this is where I have to be very careful with how I select my lens and shutter speed. (f-stop and ISO settings also come into play here) For shutter speed I use the ‘500 Rule’. 500 Divided By the Focal Length of Your Lens = The Longest Exposure (in Seconds) Before Stars Start to “Trail” So let’s say you’re using a 14mm lens on a full frame camera. 500 / 14 = 36 seconds. Using a 14mm lens I can shoot a 36 second exposure without the stars ‘trailing’. You then have to choose the proper f-stop and ISO settings to determine the optimal exposure. Full disclosure – I found out about the 500 rule by searching the interweb.  There are tons of sites out there with far more technical info if you really want to geek out.  For example I found this post with the following chart to help simplify your lens/shutter speed combo. chart So to provide an example of this at work:

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Milky Way over the Tetons – Nikon D800, 14-24mm f2.8 – 14mm, 30secs @ f2.8 ISO 3200

As you can see the stars appear brilliantly with no trailing.  I was also lucky to capture a meteor streaking across the frame.

Framing your shot can be a little tricky when it is dark out. You will have to experiment with your camera/tripod position in order to frame your composition. Auto focus will also be useless, so you will need to turn your camera or lens to manual focus and set the focus ring to infinity (this is where the headlamp can be useful to see your focal markings on the lens barrel).

Start by making exposures and using the preview on the back of the camera to determine if your exposure is correct and you like the composition. Adjust until you get the results you like. When you have a composition you like and it’s time to take the shot, a shutter release cable can be handy in order to trigger the shutter without shaking the camera. Newer cameras like the Nikon D750 can be triggered via wifi and a smartphone app. To capture the Milky Way best you’ll want to wait for the moon to be in the new moon phase. There will be no light pollution from the moon and the night sky will be at it’s most brilliant. Photographing with the moon out can also be a fun time to shoot as the moon provides ambient light which can highlight the landscape. The starry sky will not be as brilliant but on the proper night it offers a really cool balance. Here is an example.

The Tetons from Glacier Point - Nikon D3, 24-70mm 2.8 - 34mm, 30 sec@ f4 ISO 200
The Tetons from Glacier Point – Nikon D3, 24-70mm 2.8 – 34mm, 30 sec@ f4 ISO 200

  For another take on night photography you can also do fun things with moon phases.  Last year during the Blood Moon event I made this image.  The Blood Moon is a total lunar eclipse as the Earth passes between the Sun and the Moon casting a red hue on the moon.

Blood Moon Composite - Nikon D800, 70-200 f2.8 - 200mm, 1/125 sec @ f4 ISO 100
Blood Moon Composite – Nikon D800, 70-200 f2.8 – 200mm, 1/125 sec @ f4 ISO 100

And finally there is the Holy Grail of night photography: The Northern Lights. Far more common in the higher latitudes, it is pretty rare to see the aurora this far south. But in June of 2015 we were treated to a showing here in Jackson Hole. I was fortunate enough to be in the right place at the right time. It only happened for a brief few minutes and I had just setup my camera as the light began dancing across the northern sky. To capture an image like this basically involves a lot of luck, but if you ever have the chance you want to be ready! It helps that I know how to setup my camera properly but there is no way to predict if or when you will see the aurora. When a solar flare happens and creates the proper conditions the geophysical institute in Alaska can offer a prediction if the aurora will appear but even then it is not guaranteed. And if the moon is in a brighter phase it will diminish the affects. I also broke the 500 rule here a bit. With a 50mm focal length I would have been better to have a 10 sec exposure. You can see the stars just starting to trail a bit but it doesn’t bother me here. Remember all this is subjective anyway so learn about your camera and what settings create which results and then you can choose how you want your images to be.

Aurora Borealis over the Tetons - Nikon D750, 24-70mm 2.8 - 50mm, 30secs @f4 ISO 2000
Aurora Borealis over the Tetons – Nikon D750, 24-70mm 2.8 – 50mm, 30secs @f4 ISO 2000

You can spend all day reading about technique on the web but to really learn how to create these images you just need to get out and experiment. Most of all, getting out there and shooting at night helps you figure out which effects you like best. Personally, however the photographs turn out, I love being up in the national park on these cool clear nights. Its a great way to experience Grand Teton National Park. Go out and give it a whirl!

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All images © Taylor Glenn

Wildlife Safari in Jackson Hole

It’s a warm summer night, and the airy, comfortable van has come to a full stop along an irrigation ditch in the sage flats. Dust whirls around the tires and Taylor Phillips, owner of EcoTour Adventures, raises a pair of binoculars to his eyes.

“Anybody know if it’s a female or a male?” he asks, quietly, without turning his head.

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He’s looking out across the sage flats by Mormon Row, an aptly named area just east of Blacktail Butte in Grand Teton National Park, and the first settling place of the area’s early Mormon farmers. In the distance, four pronghorn graze majestically, illuminated by the golden rays of the long evening light.   

Taylor has the passengers guess the gender of the elegant ungulates, pointing out territorial and behavioral clues that allow the guests to draw a portrait of what’s happening in front of them.

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“Essentially, these guys are bachelors, and this is their bachelor pad,” Taylor explains. “See all that dead grass and dust? They don’t have the status within the herd to graze in more desirable territory, so here they are.” 

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The pronghorn, seemingly impervious to the EcoTours van parked by their pad, continue to graze. The light shifts, subtly, moment by moment, and the ridgeline of the Tetons cast lengthy shadows across the flat valley floor, creating a two-dimensional outline of the range. At Schwabacher’s Landing, the next stop on the tour, the sun dips behind Mount Owen in a final, flaring, brilliant farewell.

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In between Taylor’s discussion of the earth’s stretching crust and scraping glaciers we wander trails by the twisting Snake River and giggle as beaver heads plow through the still water, creating ripples in the fly-strewn calm. The bison, elk, and moose, not visible now, but present, wander the plains and among the willow banks, sharing the cooling mountain air with the small group.

“I want people to think about how landscape and wild interact.”

While its glaring beauty never fails to arrest, this frequently crossed Antelope Flats area of Jackson Hole can lose its novelty as an exciting part of our local wilderness in its own right. Yet even here the captivating connections Taylor draws between species, plants, geology, and people shed new perspective on this giant ecosystem many call home. For him, the EcoTours experience is “to go ‘beyond pretty.’ Everyone is impressed with the beauty of this place. But I want people to think about how landscape and wild interact. How can people interact? How can a deeper understanding of this place make a visitor’s trip to the Tetons more memorable?”

The mountains have healing powers for us humans, and land holds the power to heal itself. For visitor or local, those stories of wilderness, nature, and history are etched across the valley, sprinkled across the high moraines, and sunken into the riverbeds. Those stories are written again every day at the hatch of a caddisfly, the unfurling of a scarlet gilia flower, or the brush of an elk’s leg against the silverleaf. EcoTours helps bring those stories to life.   

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To book a wildlife safari in Jackson Hole or Yellowstone with Taylor Phillips or his other naturalists click here.

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Images © Taylor Glenn

Paddling the Tetons’ Turquoise Necklace

The boat leaves the shoreline in a lurch, its stern tracing a line in the sand until it launches into the clear water. String Lake stretches forth, a crystalline, glassy plane that seems to support the entire Teton Range.

In the calm morning’s light breeze and still water these piedmont lakes are at their finest: Jackson, Leigh, String, Jenny, and Phelps lie strewn like a necklace of turquoise beads at the foot of the impossibly jagged Teton Range. As ancient glaciers scraped out the valley bottom almost 2 million years ago on their thoughtful journey southward from the Yellowstone Plateau, they left the earth pocked and pitted. The Jackson Hole valley retains, and boasts, the glorious scars of this age — scars apparent in the wide canyons, sharp ridges, moraines, and deep piedmont lakes.

The inlet stream at String Lake bubbles forth under a low wooden bridge, continuing its slippery southbound journey to Jenny Lake, the next of these shimmering liquid emeralds. Although most visitors are drawn, understandably, to the seemingly endless (and epic) hiking opportunities in the area, accessing the Tetons by boat offers a unique perspective into the quieter corners of the park. While it is impossible to paddle all the lakes successively, short portages make exploring clusters of them a rewarding endeavor. From the canoe, quietly sliding across the water, the mountains reveal subtleties not visible from the forested intimacy of the hiking trails.

Each stroke of the paddle westward propels the little vessel past the fir-lined shore, closer to the mountains than before. The paddlers fall into an easy rhythm, correcting their course every few strokes. In the tranquility even the gentlest shifts of light are startling as the stern Cascade Canyon cliffs become sharper and more pronounced. As our steady paddling passes time along, the morning imperceptibly blossoms into daytime; the lake water takes on a new hue of blue as the sun intensifies.

A series of white sand beaches stretch between clusters of lodgepole forest. A perfect picnic spot. The canoes coast toward the beach: not a sound aside from a breath of wind and the calm dropping of water beads falling from the glossy wooden paddles. Being on the water does that. It eliminates excess and distraction. The sand, warm to the touch, welcomes the watercraft as we haul them ashore. Our tidy beach spot frames the lesser-known Moran canyon, sparking talk of potential adventures, logistics, and future days of pure exploration.

On the water, time seems to slow down, just a little bit, and maybe just for a morning. The Tetons’ piedmont lakes, when explored patiently, offer a unique and unforgettable perspective of our majestic range. All that matters is to keep the bow straight and take another paddle onward.

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Images © Taylor Glenn

The Perfect Margarita

“When done wrong, even with the right ingredients, a margarita just won’t taste great,” Paco says as he slings his silver shaker over his shoulder with experienced ease. Outside, a grey sky spits cold rain onto the recently turned leaves. Fall has spread across Jackson Hole. On summer days, Hatch’s deck is covered with post-hike / post-bike gangs cashing in on their reward: Paco’s oh-so-refreshing margarita. On snowy days, the margarita soothes shared stories of big air, big falls, and those full-grinned last run powder turns.

Today, we are just in time for our favorite happy hour treat. Darting through blazes of yellow aspen trees in the early afternoon’s sun, we sprinted our last miles of biking to get back to town. A dark line of rainclouds in silent pursuit.

Paco smiles to himself as he measures out the 2 to 1 to 2 ratio of the fresh goods in his jigger: 2 oz of Camarena Silver tequila, 1 oz of agave nectar, and 2 oz freshly squeezed lime juice. “Squeezed fresh in house daily,” he explains proudly as he notices me watching. I’ve watched before too, because it’s clear that the secret to Hatch’s signature drink is not the pure goodness of the ingredients but really Paco’s understanding of the little extras needed to make the best margarita in town.

“Squeezed fresh in house daily,”

First comes the glass. “You’ve got to make sure to get an even distribution of lime juice around the outside of the rim,” he explains as he rolls the rim of his tumbler through a plate of salt, “to ensure an evenly salted rim.” The glass is set onto the wooden bar, its rim now coated in an even layer of white salt crystals.  

Next; the ice. Paco scoops a neat pile of ice into the prepped glass. Apart, of course, from the top-quality freshness of pure lime juice, Paco insists that ice is the most important factor in the overall quality of his margarita. The smaller the cube, like most common household ones, the faster the dilution process, thus rendering a mediocre final product. At Hatch, Paco explains, their ice cubes are just the right size and density to dilute the tartness of the lime in the shaker while still maintaining the full flavor and potency of the drink as a whole once poured.

Makes sense, but my gaze softens as my tired legs sink further in to my chair. I’m glad we got our ride in before the rain. Will those Aspen groves lose too many leaves in this storm?

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A sudden clang from Paco’s direction snaps me back to attention. It’s game time. Paco throws a new handful of ice into his shaker, pours in the measured ingredients slapping a smaller cup onto the butt of the first and begins his shake. The sound of cubes clacking against steel turns into a more uniform slushing as his pace quickens, that same soft grin on his face the whole while. It’s at that point of slushing, he explains as he replaces the butt of his shaker with a strainer, that he knows the drink is ready. He pours the light green liquid over the cubes and a small layer of froth lands neatly on top, just perfectly in line with the pre-salted rim. Still watching closely, I learn that like any good beer these suds are essential, as the effervescence helps release flavor through scent to the drinker, hitting all the senses with one good shake.

With a quick hand he adds a straw, a wedge of lime, et voila!  He places it in front of me, a slight tilt in his head, his eyebrow cocked in expectation as I take my first sip. Hatch’s perfect Margarita. I smile and notice it’s pouring outside. Well earned, I see my tacos arriving too. “Thanks, Paco.”

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Paco’s Perfect Margarita
2 oz Camarena Silver tequila
1 oz  agave nectar
2 oz freshly squeezed lime juice
good ice – not too small!

Join Paco for a margarita and tacos daily at Hatch. 120 West Broadway in downtown Jackson.
For reservations call 307.203.2780.

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Images © Taylor Glenn

Fly Fishing in Jackson Hole

Jason ‘JB’ Balogh wades along a deep eddy as the afternoon sun illuminates the mayfly hatch settling on the water. His line hums out over the pool, landing in an elegant arc and floating toward the willows by the river’s edge. Jason’s eyes never leave the drifting fly; his expression never deviates from an easy, open smile of anticipation.

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The moment comes suddenly, as it always does: expectation and surprise merge as quickly as the flash of a golden tail breaking the taut liquid surface.

“Fish on!”

A flick of his wrist skyward maintains tension in the line as the tip of his rod arcs gently toward the fight. The fish struggles, stunned and angry, flickering glimpses of its bright belly. Jason, patient, calm and, alert, embodies the seemingly effortless precision of a master – and teacher – at work.

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When Jason – or JB, as he is known – started his guiding service Fish The Fly in 2009, he says it was the perfect marriage of a lifestyle and a business opportunity. “I just went for it,” he says, explaining that after cutting his teeth running the fishing program at nearby Crescent-H Ranch he felt ready to branch out on his own. Fish the Fly now boasts ten guides and offers multiple trip options on a variety of local waterways. JB’s success, however, was hard won. “It took me a day and a half to catch my first fish!” he admits. “I spent a lot of time learning to row, and eventually bought my first drift boat, whom I named ‘The Eddy Betty’ after my grandmother.” An innate grace accompanies JB’s fishing style, and his passion for the water has clearly directed his professional life. “Fish the Fly exists because I am consumed by fly fishing, but also because I absolutely love being with people. My mission is to open people up and break down barriers, and there’s no better place to do that than when you’re out on the river with someone all day long.”

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JB explains that many of his favorite moments guiding happen with kids and teenagers. “I just enjoy getting them to put down their phones!” Fortunately, the arresting glory of a day spent winding down the rivers of such a beautiful area makes this first task easy. With clients he has known for a long time, it’s about hopping out of the boat and really feeling what the water is doing — literally and figuratively: “Getting someone out there on the bank stalking a fish can really be taking it to the next level.”

Watching JB or any of his guides in their element, it’s not hard to notice the delicate balance of skill, patience, and intuition that creates a memorable day of fishing. These are the principles of the craft. A mixture that perfects itself over many years spent on the water. “Fishing is a spiritual thing for me. It’s about figuring out how the world works. It’s a connection with nature; you’re literally stepping into the nature, into the flow. As much as I love being there with others, I need those moments by myself, as well.” As for the perpetual excitement of that first hit on the line, JB says, “That’s the moment when other things cease to exist.”

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JB and his guides at Fish The Fly specialize in fishing a variety of waterways within the greater Jackson Hole and Yellowstone ecosystem.

Book a trip fly fishing in Jackson Hole with JB or a guide from his team by clicking here.

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Images © Taylor Glenn

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