Jackson Hole

On July 15, 1931, at the ripe age of 18, Glenn Exum walked into Garnet Canyon alone with the mission of pioneering a route up the beautiful southern ridge of the Grand Teton. Wearing borrowed and oversized, leather football cleats he somehow managed to navigate the gap separating ‘Wall St’, the ramp leading up to the ridge, and the platform below the ‘Golden Staircase’, which defines the start of the upper ridge. His leap of faith to gain the ridge is the stuff of legend and cemented his position in the lore of climbing history. He opened the way for what has become one of the most important and famous ridges in the world of alpinism. One can only imagine the courage and strength of mind the young Exum carried with him that day, and it is clearly appropriate that this incredible feature of beautiful rock now bears his name.

Fast forward nearly 86 years to the day and here we are standing at the end of Wall Street staring at that same stomach wrenching exposure that Exum encountered and all I can think is what a stud he was. We have our sticky rubber approach shoes and all the fancy modern gear but it still puts a lump in your throat making the delicate moves across that gap. I’m now across watching Wyatt and coaching him through the sequence. Having done it a few times myself I know it well enough that the intimidation of climbing through this famous feature has subsided but the respect for the consequences will always remain. This is Wyatt’s first Grand Teton attempt and we are climbing with his father Brad, cousin Michael, and friend Toby. When I heard they were going to give it a go I insisted on joining to document the climb and to have an excuse to return to the ridge once again. I have climbed the Grand almost every year since I moved to Jackson in 2003 and it seems to get better the more familiar I become with it. It’s like an old friend that you see every now and then and fall right back into a comfortable rhythm once reconnected. And this day was particularly special as we had the privilege of sharing in one of the great mountain experiences with a father and son on their first Grand Teton adventure together.

A car to car day on the GT means an early start. With the sun rising and mild temps we cruised the switchbacks up Lupine Meadows trailhead.

At the top of the switchbacks you turn a corner and enter Garnet Canyon with the Middle Teton and Nez Perce looming above. The immensity of this zone is breathtaking and it’s a not so subtle reminder of how far you have to go.

After navigating the lower section of the canyon known as the Meadows, you begin the more grueling ascent up the steep trail passing the Petzoldt Caves and then the moraine of upper Garnet Canyon. Hopping around house sized boulders makes you feel quite insignificant.

Early summer conditions persist which means there is still snow in certain areas up high. And it makes for much better travel on days like this. Climbing up the headwall of the lower saddle is much faster with the summer snowpack.

From the lower saddle you get perfect views of the complete Exum Ridge. Follow the line down and right from the high point in the photo above. That’s it…

I am always in awe of how life finds it’s way in such harsh environments. These alpine flowers are tiny but strong. I love the spattering of color dotting the barren alpine landscape.

After a brief hike/scramble from the lower saddle you cross over the gully to gain Wall St, the ramp that accesses the Exum ridge. It’s clear in the image above to the climber’s right.  All the while the Middle Teton looms to the South.

The real fun begins! Wall St is a big, beautiful granite ramp and at the end is the famous gap where young Exum became a legend. It’s hard to appreciate the exposure from this angle but you can get a sense of the space below.

Once you navigate the exposure of Wall St you are on the Upper Exum Ridge. From there it’s South facing sun all day and fantastic climbing.

The summit of the Grand Teton stands at 13,772′ above sea level. It’s around 7,000′ above the valley floor. Standing here gazing across Jackson Hole on the roof of WY never gets old. It’s a special spot on the globe and even better when shared with your friends. Of course this is only the half way point and day dreams of beer and pizza start to find their way into your head. Time to descend…

Nothing like early summer mountaineering! Walking down on the snow is so much better.

And of course any good adventure in the Tetons isn’t complete without a stop at Dornans to satiate that beer and pizza craving and to gaze back up at the Tetons contemplating the day’s work.

 

Images and story by Taylor Glenn

 

 

True to form, any adventure with Taylor Phillips involves traversing some way off the grid wilderness via some type of arduous means of travel with the guarantee of some discomfort and a ton of laughter and wonderment. Pretty much the definition of Type II Fun. I couldn’t ask for anything more. With a historic snowpack from an incredible winter the rivers are swollen. Perfect time to get out and run some normally non-floatable waters. Packrafts have opened up an entirely new way to experience wilderness. We had been talking for sometime about a trip like this and June 2017 turned out to be prime. The mission was to hike in from Turpin Meadows up the N Buffalo Fork to Two Oceans Pass, the Continental Divide, and the Parting of the Waters, then float Pacific Creek back to the border of Grand Teton NP. 15ish miles of hiking and 20 or so river miles through some of the most remote and incredible wilderness of the lower 48. To say we are fortunate to have access to places like this is an understatement. Only a few miles as the crow flies from us the summer hoard of tourists is swelling through the Jackson Hole valley. For 3 days we traversed this wild country and only crossed paths with 2 rangers out clearing trails. There is a lifetime of adventure to be had here and by getting off the beaten path you can have it all to yourself. 

Light and Tight. No room for anything extra on packrafting trips. If it isn’t crucial leave it behind…

June is wildflower season here in the Tetons. The Balsam Root was in full display along the trail.

Nothing like a little caveman tv to relax and recharge.

Crossing over to Two Oceans Pass with a little reminder of how big winter was.

By far one the coolest parts of this trip and one of the all time interesting geographic locations I have visited, Parting of the Waters. A mile or so above Two Oceans Meadow the source of Atlantic and Pacific Creeks splits to form its respective flows. This is a pretty unique spot on the globe. Very cool to contemplate the journey this water makes as it flows through the US.

Time to blow up and start the float. With water levels so high we were able to put on Pacific Creek in Two Oceans Meadow. There is very little info out there on floating this creek system. It’s entirely possible we were the first people to float from this high up. Would love to know if anyone else has been up there and was able to start in this zone.

Channels in the flooded meadows allowed for passage. These boats are so nimble.

Subtle reminder that we are visitors in this land. I have a pretty big foot. That is a large bear…

Beers don’t fall under crucial gear category but certainly are worth the effort to haul in.

Once in the canyon the water picks up speed and the hazard begins. We navigated many strainers across the river and by that I mean we got out and walked around.

At one point we thought we might be walking a significant portion of this due to so many strainers and blind corners, then we arrived at the confluence of Pacific and Mink Creeks. Without boats it would have been uncrossable. With all that water we decided to give it a go. It went…

The lower canyon section was mostly clear and allowed for a great cruise out to the trailhead. Floating past beautiful wildflowers towards the Tetons in the lower meadows is something special, an appropriate ending to a very special experience.  Here’s to many more great adventures this summer!

 

Photos by Taylor Glenn
Follow TG on Instagram for more adventure around JH

 

They’re the awkward weeks wedged between winter and full-blown springtime. No longer considered ski season, but not yet time for more summery sports, we hang suspended in the valley between the seasons.

The weather can be unpredictable; glorious sunshine-filled days can give way to drizzles or even snow flurries in a matter of minutes. Shining Teton peaks can be eclipsed by clouds that roll in like a swift wave, only to be revealed again moments later. Many locals seize the opportunity to pack up their cars and camper vans and head south in search of desert sunshine.

But I’d like to let you in on a secret. This is one of my absolute favorite times of year in Jackson Hole. It has been for as long as I can remember.

With few visitors, and many locals out of town, there’s a sense that you have the place entirely to yourself. On a visit to Grand Teton National Park last week, I enjoyed the iconic Snake River Overlook – of Ansel Adams fame – completely solo. Well, except for the nosy fox family that pokes around from time to time. No other cars. No other visitors. Not a tour bus in sight. It’s a rare treat to stand alone in a spot like this, surrounded by the timeless peace of solitude and the sweeping beauty of the mountains and river. 

Spring’s slow and steady march across the landscape always fills me with awe at the resilience of the creatures that inhabit Jackson Hole. Despite feet of snow, steeply-dipping temperatures and long winter nights, life endures and reemerges. Bears, with newborn cubs in tow, crawl out of dens. Tiny, fuzzy bison with spindly legs appear beside their mothers in fields that are just beginning to show hints of green. Pointed flocks of waterfowl arrive, aimed north. Below, the river swells and turns turquoise, and lacy, ephemeral waterfalls decorate canyons and ravines.  

I imagine that local creatures are filled with similar joy at the warming, lengthening days and ever-greening foliage. How delicious must budding willows and pond greens taste to a moose who has been browsing on dormant sticks all winter? You can’t tell me the deer and elk aren’t overjoyed to munch on tender tufts of grass after pawing through snow to eat fall’s leftovers for months. And if trout can feel happiness, I am confident that ice abandoning lakes and rivers inspires it in their fishy hearts.

In the human community, we welcome these changes in the landscape around us as a sign to begin our own rituals of spring. Relishing the anticipation of summer heat, we take the time to close the season behind us. We lovingly pack away skis and boots, ice fishing rods and snowshoes. Until next year, we say. Maybe we reflect on the season past, mentally playing a highlight reel as we round up mittens and puffy layers that will hibernate through the sunny season.

We enthusiastically dig out hiking boots and camping gear, boats and bikes, fly rods and flip flops. We fire up the grill, and spend lengthening evenings making plans for new adventures. We swap the car’s snow tires for those better suited to dirt roads. We prepare the earth in our gardens for this year’s vegetables and flowers.

It’s a season profoundly characterized by renewal and promise. Year after year, it leaves me brimming with excitement for the season to come.

So, if you aren’t afraid to get a little old-fashioned mud on your boots, I invite you to come share this magical time of year in Jackson Hole. But shhhhh. Let’s keep this between us, okay?   

Town Square’s iconic elk antler arch soaks up the sunlit glow of a spring afternoon, and goggle tanned skiers saunter through it as if entering the pearly gates to après heaven. Look a little closer around Town Square and you’ll begin to spot elk antlers everywhere- woven into wine racks, embossed onto cards and stationary, and cast in a pretty little gold silhouette delicately strung around the neck of one of Jackson’s most popular jewelry designers.

The effortlessly put together Padgett Hoke is a jewelry designer, real estate broker, true Jackson native, and all around outdoorsy gal.  She is also one of those motivated, questionably sane people you see running on the side of the road when the ground is frozen over and the snow banks are higher than an SUV, charmingly devoted to the sport she loves so much. “One time, my eyelashes were freezing,” Padgett laughs, “So I wore ski goggles. Hey, they work for skiing, so I thought, why not? This year I made a pact to not go if it’s below zero.”

Padgett is just the kind of person who finds something she loves and goes all in. While studying economics and small business administration at Montana State University, she serendipitously walked into a bead store one afternoon and left overwhelmed with the possibilities emanating from each bin of beads.

Her creative cogs began to turn, and over the next few months she made simple necklaces and earrings for her friends, blown away by the newfound ability to take pieces she liked and craft them into her own finished designs. “I come from a really creative family,” Padgett explains, “and my parents put us in all sorts of arts programs… I was always creating.” She even took a metal working class as a high school student, unaware that one day her jewelry designs would sell all over the country.

Jackson Hole eventually drew Padgett home for good, and the shapes and colors of summer days spent running and rafting have continued to inspire her collections. She designs for herself, her friends, and for the every woman, aiming to create pieces that could be worn taking a brazen plunge into Delta Lake and then getting married at the elegant Diamond Cross Ranch that same weekend. Padgett affirms, “Active people can also be glamorous people.”  

Padgett’s necklaces featuring the silhouette of elk antlers and of the Teton range are her most recognizable, and the eye catching antler necklace was even worn by Scarlett on the hit TV show Nashville, catapulting Padgett’s line into mainstream popularity.  Her 2017 Spring Collection is her most versatile yet, and our favorites include the timeless Howlite necklace in colors reminiscent of a hidden glacial lake, and the gold antler ear climbers, a fresh, trendy take on her classic design.

Brides often call on Padgett to design custom pieces for their weddings and bridal parties, but this summer Padgett will be playing the part of the bride and marrying her longtime love at her parents’ house among family, friends, and epic jewelry, of course. We have to wonder, what does a jewelry designer’s perfect engagement ring look like?

Padgett’s rock is actually 105 years old and belonged to her great great grandmother. The piece is as dainty and delicate as it is sentimental, so she plans on wearing it for special occasions and designing an everyday ring herself.

The busy bride-to-be is just as excited about designing her own ring as she is about creating a bra for the upcoming local charity “Bras for a Cause,” a creative fashion show event that raises money for St John’s Women’s Health Care Fund. Whatever Padgett creates is sure to stun, and if elk antler bras are involved, sign us up.

To see more of Padgett’s stunning work, or to order some for yourself, visit her website. Alternatively, swing into local store MADE and check out her latest designs for a beautiful gift or a lovely souvenir.

 

How does one elevate a town that’s already at 6,200 feet?

Sure, a long overdue Yellowstone eruption might blast us into the skies at any given moment offering us a magnificent, apocalyptic panoramic view of our humble, flame-engulfed Rocky Mountain paradise…

But let’s talk elevation in terms of culture, rather than in altitude. How can local aspiring artists and creators inject our town of 10,000+ inhabitants (give or take a tourist or two), many of whom value outdoor activities over indoor affairs, with a renewed sense of artistic integrity? How do we encourage our community as a whole to place an art opening or a dance performance on the same stoke scale of a lush powder day?

Some might say it’s impossible. But that’s not to say it’s a worthless endeavor. Artists in the valley, those whose creative ideas surpass the valley’s arguably limited artistic opportunities, should never stop pushing to bring their unique talents to the fold. Snowboarding celebrities like Travis Rice aren’t the only locals in town capable of embodying determination, taking risks, and “pushing it” at every turn, so to speak. There’s plenty of us. I’ve worked alongside many of them, and there are hundreds more who are all willing to be part of something special that will make their Jackson Hole experience distinctive and memorable.

Regardless of who you are, locals all want to leave their impact on Jackson Hole in one way or another. It’s malleable and welcoming, a true double-black diamond in the ski town rough, devoid of (most) of the snobbishness of similar ski towns that will remain unnamed. With the abundance of development and transient workers, the town is rapidly changing; however, there’s still a heart that beats wildly in the core of our valley.

And I ain’t just talkin’ ‘bout that caldera…

I owe so much of my own creative success to the supportive members of Jackson Hole. Not only did they watch me flail around during improv shows with The Laff Staff for five years and applaud it, but they’ve also purchased tickets to my quirky, experimental one act plays (“It’s like a time travel story, with Icelandic trolls and a fisherman. And it incorporates modern dance.”).

Recently, however, our local community has made one of my creative dreams come true: On March 17^th, 2017, I will be premiering my very own original musical at the Pink Garter Theatre. The two shows that led up to this endeavor and helped make it possible, “I Can Ski Forever” and “I 2 Can Ski Forever”, were sketch comedy shows about ski town living, which premiered in 2014 and 2015, respectively. Co-written with my friend, performer Josh Griffith, with additional material added by fellow actors in the shows, the shows were collaborative and offbeat and offered a much-needed satirical look into the idiosyncrasies of our community.

The shows went over so well with the community, that we even received coverage from national magazines heralding our praises. The repeated question came quickly after:

“When are you doing the next one?”

I recognized the opportunity before me immediately. I knew I had to make sure that this third “Ski Forever” production was going to blow the other two out of the water. But we’d already poked fun at so many topics and stereotypes—how would we make it fresh and interesting?

Well…obviously make it a full-length musical, right?

However, by taking on this scale of a production, I knew my budget would sky rocket. Renting venue space in Jackson can be exorbitantly expensive and challenging—that I knew. But this wasn’t just a sketch show anymore. This would be triple the size of the previous shows. I would have to pull together not only a composer, a musical director, and musicians, but also build set pieces, hire a video production team to film the show, get a choreographer and—oh yeah—write a brilliant, engaging, comprehendible script for a two-hour show.

No big deal.

Immediately, I went to our Jackson community for assistance, filming a promotional video with the help of around thirty locals and a burgeoning local media company, and launching a Kickstarter campaign to help fund the show. And sure enough, after 30 days of tribulations and second guessing, we managed to pull together our budget, and are now able to deliver a modern, original musical to the people of Jackson Hole.

By combining indoor theatre with the outdoor lifestyle that so many of us are addicted to, I feel so ready to tell a story that anyone who has lived in a ski town can identify with. It was my mission to truly say something in this play, to showcase not only my artistic point of view, but to also celebrate local talent, music, creativity, and above all, a supportive community. It all exists here.

In my wake, I can only encourage local artists to continue pushing the boundaries that are set forth for us. Going off-piste is not limited to the ski community at large, but should be a motto embodied by every local artist looking to deliver artistic pow-shots to ski towns like Jackson. Because, even at 6,200 feet, where the air and the opportunities are a little bit thinner, the sky remains the limit.

 

Andrew grew up in Jackson Hole and spent most of his childhood and adult life acting in various plays and musicals. He is the brains behind “I Can Ski Forever”, the upcoming original Jackson musical premiering at the Pink Garter Theatre on March 17th, as well as the playwright of the Riot Act one acts, “Tröllaskagi”, “Three-Step Rug”, “Those Days”, and “Second Guesses”. He is currently represented by the Bradford Literary Agency and is the author of the upcoming young adult novel, “Middleplain”. He spends much of his time in Iceland, for some reason.

Brian Laughlin didn’t plan on being a chef. And he certainly didn’t plan on paving the way to community-oriented fine dining experiences in Jackson Hole. But the 32-year-old from Portsmouth, Ohio has made a name for himself here through his unique Pop-Up Dinners that bring together elegant cuisine, fine wines, a cozy atmosphere and good company.

Growing up an artist, Laughlin went to the Art Institute of Pittsburg to study industrial design. To help with the bills, he got a job cooking. “Somewhere along the way, I realized I was better at cooking then I would ever be at industrial design,” he remembers. But his love of art, design, aesthetics and color theory has come full circle into the culinary experiences he creates. “I’m not content just cooking, and I’m not content just designing,” he says. “I like to curate the entire experience – for example, when a dish goes out you can have a song on that can make people feel a certain way.”

That’s the common theme in his Pop-Up Dinners – a completely unique and curated experience from the oversize reclaimed bar wood tables he brings to the venues to the china dishware to the unique wine pairings for each of his courses.

“Fine dining is elevated cuisine. You’re able to evoke emotion in people, you’re able to really make food more thought provoking and meaningful.” His dinners usually include 5-7 courses focused around seasonal ingredients with a palate cleanser in between each.

Why so many courses? According to Laughlin, your usual fine dining experience will include a huge hunk of meat, a pile of starch and a vegetable. With Pop-Up Dinners, you’re getting to try more things and expand your own tastes. The courses are smaller, but Laughlin says people report being the “right amount of full” and are often repeat customers.

With menu items like smoked hens egg in a wild mushroom broth, and elk tartar with oyster emulsion, trout roe and charred broccolini with a caramelized shallot chip – it’s clear that Laughlin loves to push the boundaries and bring a special palate to his dinners. But he also gives the opportunity to cultivate community – his dinners include 14 seats, but usually people purchase tickets as couples or even as singles. He learns a little bit about everyone who will attend and then creates a seating chart. “I’ve sat billionaire moguls next to professional ski bums,” he says. “At the end of the dinner they’re trading phone numbers and planning to ski together.”

For those of you who might feel a little shy, his advice is just to have an open mind. “You get surprised when you get pushed out of your comfort zone,” he says. “Friendships can happen out of it. There’s been dinners where I can’t even explain the dish because people are so lively talking to their new friends.” And don’t forget, there’s wine pairings, too. “Usually by the third wine pairing, everyone starts conversing with everyone else,” he laughs.

In addition to Pop-Up Dinners, Chef Laughlin sets his sights on cooking amazing, beautiful food anywhere, including weddings, house warmings, gallery openings and business dinners. Finding inspiration in diversity of both ingredients and cooking techniques, Laughlin is quickly becoming a rising star of the Jackson food scene, so keep your eyes and taste buds open for more creative and delicious endeavors from him.

If wintertime in Jackson Hole makes you think of Rendezvous Mountain blanketed in fresh powder, the cherry-red glint of the tram passing high over smiling skiers, and après joints serving up hot toddies, you aren’t alone. Skiing and Jackson Hole are synonymous these days, but our local hockey team, the Moose, has been livening up the Jackson scene with a dose of rowdy competition for twenty years. If you haven’t been to a Moose hockey game yet, your weekends are missing out.

The tiny town of Jackson shows up in droves – 1200 fans per game, to be exact – to support the Moose no matter what kind of a season they are having. Though the stoke is high these days due to the fact that they win, and win often. Tonight the Moose are facing a fierce team from New York.  The arena is packed, and bleacher seating spills into standing room only as locals jockey for the best spots, close to the ice and the action. The upstairs section boasts a live DJ and an animated social scene that Moose owner Bob “Howie” Carruth describes as “kind of like a sports bar with a TV on – some are glued to the game, and some are there to drink beer and have a good time.”

Howie is a Minnesota native whose passion for being on the ice prompted him to start the Moose in 1997, after the local junior league team folded. Howie simply couldn’t imagine a mountain town without a hockey team, so he threw together the Moose in two months and modeled his community supported hockey program after the Sun Valley Suns. The first season was a rollercoaster, but Howie cleaned up the program the next year, and started winning. “We run a good, clean, program, but we are also hard-hitting… we defend each other,” Howie tells us.

As a scuffle breaks out on the ice, bodies and hockey sticks slam into the boards, almost spilling the beer in the hand of one fan, who practically has her nose pressed to the glass. “I got here early,” she smiles, “to watch us dominate.”

Moose players are quick to thank their fans for showing up game after game, and in turn, the team never turns down an opportunity to give back to its fans and community. The Moose team is closely tied to Jackson’s youth hockey program, and players contribute as coaches and mentors. Drew Akins, who is the director of player development for the youth program and a high scorer for the Moose, admires how “the coaches here are so devoted, it’s amazing. Sometimes there will be ten coaches out on the ice with the kids.” The Moose also collaborate with the Teton Adaptive Center every other Sunday to help kids and adults with special needs learn to skate using sleds, a project that has received a grant from USA Hockey.

Tonight sees the Moose continue their winning streak, beating the New York St. Nicks 4 to 2. Celebrations commence in the locker room after the game, where players, coaches, friends, and fans mingle, eating pizza, drinking cold brews, and enthusiastically reliving tonight’s highlights. As fans file out of the arena, buzzed on the win and warmed by the energetic camaraderie, they speculate about next Friday night’s game against the Bozeman Stingers. Some say the heart of hockey belongs in the Midwest, but this little Western ski town is proud to call the Moose all ours.

 

Check game results, upcoming schedules and roster info for the Jackson Hole Moose Hockey Team on their website. 

A few weeks ago, the old-timers around town kept reminding us that this is how Jackson Hole winters used to be: snow heaped high along the sides of roads, fluffy piles tucked into every spare corner town had to offer. But since then, even the most grizzled longtime residents have been surprised by the intensity of the season.

2017 is certain to live on as legend in the minds of locals – the winter that just won’t quit!

One powerful storm after the next has dumped mountains of snow on the town, the ski resorts, and the wilderness that surrounds it all. And this week, it all feels particularly “Wild West” as a wind storm downed seventeen power poles, causing a massive power outage at Teton Village and forcing an unprecedented closure of Jackson Hole Mountain Resort for the week.

But don’t think for a moment that means your time in Jackson will lack for excitement. Plenty of adventures await – no electricity required!

Fat Biking

If you’re looking for a new and exciting way to explore wintertime in Jackson Hole, a fat bike is just the adventure you’re craving. Hit some snow-covered trails and experience the beauty and thrills of the Wyoming winter under your own pedal power. Lots of fun for all ages!

Snowshoeing

How did the pioneers get around during the snowiest months in Jackson Hole? Snowshoes, of course!  This is the perfect chance to get a unique view of the Tetons in winter as you enjoy a peaceful snowshoe trip in Grand Teton National Park. This winter wonderland offers amazing views of wildlife, mountains and icy rivers and streams. Let your guide share the ecology, history and geology of the area – not a whit of electricity necessary. 

Cross-country Skiing

Just because the mountain is closed doesn’t mean you can’t explore Jackson’s snowy paradise on skis! Clip into a pair cross-country skis and glide through the shadow of the Tetons Nordic style. Keep your eyes open for glimpses of wildlife, and don’t forget your camera – these are some views you’ll want to keep revisiting long after your vacation is over.

Snowmobiling

Craving high speed powdery thrills? A breathtaking ride into the wilds of Yellowstone? Or perhaps a wintertime soak in a hot spring? Take your pick from the huge array of snowmobiling options around Jackson Hole. Whichever you choose, you won’t regret it.

Wildlife Tours

Check out how Jackson’s wildest locals spend the winter! From the comfort of a heated van, let a seasoned guide take you on an expedition to see some of the amazing species that call the Tetons home. Look for wolves, coyotes, moose, bighorn sheep and more with a guide who knows all the best spots.

And these are just a few of the exiting options that await, despite the wild weather! Let us help you get some truly unforgettable activities lined up. Head on over to the website to book whatever you’re looking for: a food tour of downtown Jackson, a breathtaking snowcoach tour of Yellowstone, a dogsled adventure or maybe a relaxing afternoon massage. If you’ve got questions, or aren’t sure what to pick, give us a shout at 307.690.4790! 

All that’s left to do is decide how you’re going to get out there and enjoy the most legendary winter we’ve seen in decades!

“Mountains all covered in snow… it’s like heaven to me.”

Nancy Bockino breathes a contented sigh as she pauses for reprieve, gesturing towards today’s destination: a secret aspen glade tucked somewhere on the iconic backcountry peak called 25 Short. Imagine a tough, uphill hike in the park, but add several feet of snow on the ground, almost zero other visitors, avalanche danger, skis underneath your feet and a 40-liter pack on your back. Nancy dutifully breaks trail in Grand Teton National Park every single day, an adventure most skiers only dare a handful of times each season.

“Breaking trail on skis is my favorite thing in the world,” she adds, interrupted only by clicks of her bindings and the satisfying sound of untracked snow giving way to the weight of her skis. Today the snow is light and deep, the weather holds, and there is time for thoughtful silence and time for storytelling. Nancy lets loose her signature giggle, remembering seasons spent in the mountains of Idaho, and takes us back to the beginning of a life spent out-of-doors.

“I had sort of an unusual childhood,” she laughs. “I grew up in rural Northern Idaho, there was no real town. My parents were both teachers, so we would spend all summer together, with my brother and sister, living and travelling in an old VW bus. We spent all our vacation time in the mountains.”

One summer, Nancy returned home with a juvenile pine tree she picked out on a trip to the nursery with her family. Nancy nurtured the seedling, which later died of a fungus. “Some people are just on their path, whether purposefully or on accident,” she laughs, musing over the synchronicity of life. “Mine was an accident.” These days, Nancy spends summers working as an ecologist for Grand Teton National Park, scaling whitebark pine trees to collect pinecones as a part of her lifetime effort to save the endangered tree. “Those are my passions,” Nancy laughs. Trees and snow.”

Nancy learned to ski shortly after learning to walk, and her first pair of skis was an adorable 12 inches long. “Skiing is just engrained in who I am,” Nancy explains. “I am also a climber, and I’m the kind of person who reads a book, finds a partner, and then goes out and tries something. I applied this to backcountry skiing. It was self taught at first, with my dog as my partner.” Before her arrival in Jackson in 2000, she took an avalanche course in 1995, which sparked her interest in snow science and led to countless backcountry adventures with local legends including Tom Turiano, Bill Anderson, and Gary Falk, who became trusted mentors.

The clouds break for a moment, revealing the Grand Teton blanketed in virgin snow, a sparkling contrast to the profound blue of the wide Wyoming sky. Nancy’s skin track begins to slope upwards, steadily gaining altitude. She points her skis up a relatively low angle slope with a low risk of sliding, and is careful to avoid terrain in the run out of any slide path. “Mountains are dynamic,” she explains. “When you go into the backcountry, you need to have a plan and understand what you do have control over. Even then, you must be patient, appreciate the journey, and approach them with humility and respect.”

Nancy has worked as a firefighter, search and rescue volunteer, bike mechanic, EMT, Exum mountain guide, wolf researcher, and even tracked foxes south of the border, but underneath her jack-of-all-trades persona is a deep understanding of the natural world. Her work teaching avalanche safety courses through AIARE and Jackson Hole Outdoor Leadership Institute is a testament to a lifetime spent in the field. For Nancy, there is no greater joy than looking at a far away mountain all covered in snow and knowing she can go there. She feels compelled to impart her knowledge and experience in the mountains with others who share the same passion, and her hands on wisdom has undoubtedly inspired a new generation of careful backcountry enthusiasts. Avalanche safety courses coupled with mentored experience are absolutely invaluable in the backcountry, and may well save your life.

Nancy stops, eyes scanning the incandescent backdrop that is her classroom, playground, and “the keeper of her soul.” She strips the skins off of her skis, adjusts her bindings, and prepares to ski an aesthetic line speckled by barren aspen trees. An hour and a half of uphill challenge is about to reward her with ten minutes of powdery bliss, but for Nancy, the entire journey is her destination.

Trees, snow, and the glittering unknown whiz past Nancy in a well-earned blur of blower powder. Nancy lets loose, arcing turns through cold smoke with an ever-present smile and the occasional delighted giggle.

Clouds momentarily obstruct the sun and a new wind carries the breath of another storm. Nancy’s smile travels all the way to her eyes. She zips on an extra layer, and turns south towards the distant Taggart Lake trailhead. Behind her, perfect tracks mark the paper white snow like divine calligraphy. A solemn, respectful nod takes the place of her usual carefree laugh.

“Thanks Mama Mountain, for letting me play, and for letting me come home.”